Meandering the Chattooga

Written By: Deena Bouknight | Issue: May 2023

“The river was cut by the world’s great flood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of the rocks are timeless raindrops. Under the rocks are the words, and some of the words are theirs. I am haunted by waters.” ― Norman Maclean, A River Runs Through It and Other Stories

A pleasant surprise recently was my discovery of the “first” section of what is considered the Blue Ridge portion of the Bartram Trail.

It officially starts in Georgia, about 15 miles drive down pastoral Warwoman Road to Hwy. 28 and a spot on the Chattooga River called Russell Bridge. From there, one can hike a mile or so out and back to the parking area.

Or, for adventurous, sturdy hikers, an almost 10-mile swatch can be achieved with a second car parked at the Sandy Gap trailhead on the graveled Sandy Ford Road, off Warwoman.

Regardless of the hike distance chosen, the draw of this section is most certainly the Chattooga River. It is one of those rivers that offers it all: wide vistas, rocky outcroppings, and sandy river islands.

Around one bend are rapids and small falls that ease gradually into glassy waters so crystal clear that the river bottom is visible no matter the depth.

Another bend and the river is narrower, with tight groves of mountain laurel and rhododendron hugging the banks. Arched bridges, built by the forest service workers or Bartram Trail volunteers, make it easy to cross the river when necessary.

In some spots along the river are wide open and well-used camping areas, complete with fire pits. One fire pit even includes a grill that someone hauled in and left.

When naturalist, horticulturist, and explorer William Bartram traversed this area in the 1700s to document foliage and wildlife in what was then Cherokee Territory for his Travels book, the Chattooga may have been somewhat different in spots due to time and nature’s impact on the landscape. Yet, one can imagine that what they see today is at least very similar to what Bartram experienced more than 200 years ago.

And when an imposing Bald Eagle swooped down and perched confidently on the limb of a tree directly in my path, I felt assured that Bartram indeed must have witnessed such sights as well.

While this trail can be hiked at any time, warmer weather enables hikers to truly enjoy the pristine waters of the Chattooga. Many areas, in fact, are easily accessible for wading or full-on swimming in pools that beckon. Take a dog and let them enjoy it as well.

The Bartram is easy enough to follow with some carved stone markers indicating direction and mileage, and other signage indicates when a forest service road or trail intersects. Just as long as the yellow blazes are paid attention to and followed, hikers typically have no issues staying the course.

The only challenge is crossing Dick’s Creek near the Sandy Ford trailhead. It’s not that deep, but the sides are steep. A bridge apparently washed out there, but searching around for a place to cross reveals a downed tree that at least enables hikers to get over Dick’s Creek without getting shoes wet.

Check out All Trails or GAIA GPS apps for trailhead directions and trail navigation indicators, but also consider purchasing a Georgia Bartram Trail map – super handy – from Blue Ridge Bartram Trail Conservancy site at blueridgebartram.org.