At Madison’s Helm Chris Huerta

Written By: Pat Allen | Issue: 2016/09 - September

Many of us never fully appreciate the importance of teamwork. While interviewing Chef Chris Huerta, executive chef at Madison’s Restaurant in the Old Edwards Inn, it was obvious that he has a great appreciation for his team.

Growing up in Aiken, South Carolina, where pastures of majestic horses are common scenery, Chef Chris’s love for land began at an early age. He lived with his grandmother Mary Barnett, who was a dietician with an emphasis on nutrition, and the seed for his culinary adventures was planted. His grandfather Bob grew up on the largest dairy farm in Washington, Georgia, and Chris‘s exposure to the significance of farm animals began.

The Willcox Inn in Aiken, built in 1898 by Frederick Willcox of Cheshire, England, played a significant role in Chris’ life. Its reputation was built on ambiance, impeccable service, and excellent cuisine – not unlike the Old Edwards Inn and Spa in Highlands. It quickly became nationally and internationally known and was a destination for Franklin Roosevelt and Winston Churchill, as well as other dignitaries.  It was purchased in November 2000 by the Garrett Hotel Group, based in Vermont, which owned several prestigious hotels in the Adirondacks. A major renovation began and it reopened in 2002 to its former glory and became known as “The Willcox.”

Chef Chris’ career ultimately began at The Willcox, still owned by the Garrett Hotel Group. He went to work there while waiting to begin Johnson and Wales University in Charleston, South Carolina. He worked with Bob Conte, who would give him advice that changed the path of his career. Conte suggested that Chris not attend college but keep working “hands on,” surrounding himself with the best chefs possible. 

He did just that and was hired by the Garrett Group as a traveling sous chef in New York and South Carolina as a very young man. He was exposed to the best chefs in the Southeast. When the Garrett Group opened six new restaurants in the Adirondacks, Chef Chris was asked to be part of the team and his love and passion for the mountains and his farm-to-table philosophy began. 

After working with renowned Chef Gunter Seeger for several years, he was eventually recruited back to the Willcox in Aiken where it all started. It is noteworthy that Seeger was the first chef ever to receive five stars for the renowned Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Atlanta and proceeded to open Seeger’s in Buckhead. Chef Chris was asked to join him and attributes his experience with Chef Seeger for reviving his love for farm-fresh produce and the appearance and visual appeal of his plates – something enjoyed by Madison’s diners today. It was at this time that he married Laura, who shares his love for the culinary arts and is current owner of Lakeside Restaurant in Highlands.

Ironically, Chef Chris had met Richard Delaney, president of the Old Edwards Hospitality Group, 16 years prior to moving to Highlands. He was recruited as sous chef and was promoted to executive chef one year ago. His philosophy of teamwork and respect for those under him has contributed to his success and 10 years with the Old Edwards Group. This is the eighth Relais and Chateaux restaurant he has worked for and surely he was instrumental in the achievement of such a prestigious award for Madison’s.

Seven years ago, Chef Chris’ passion for farm-to-table surged to new heights and he asked to start a garden in Highlands in order to supply fresh produce to Madison’s. He began with three raised beds and today it has grown to 200 hundred beds on two-and-a-half acres of land! This warms his heart and is reminiscent of Aiken. He raises chickens on his own farm in Scaly Mountain and had pigs also, until he decided pigs were too time-consuming!

His love for land and gardening, a grandmother whose love for cooking rubbed off, his appreciation for teamwork, and great advice from a mentor secured Chef Chris’ top position in the culinary world. 

Some of my favorites at Madison’s and the Wine Garden are the Roasted Springer Chicken, Red Wine Braised Short Ribs, Truffled Mac and Cheese, Locally-Grown Salad with Apple Cider Vinaigrette, Chicken Salad, and any and all soufflés!