A Wine Destination

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: October - 2022

Boy, did we need a break. Tricia and I arrived at On the Verandah the first Thursday in September. I’d ask you to cast your memory back to that particular stretch of time – when the entire Plateau was shaded and sogged by what felt like 37 days of driving rain and lowering skies, when even the otters at Lake Ravenel were considering a relocation to central Florida. That’s why when we were seated on the airy porch that overlooks Lake Sequoyah, our spirits were lifted just a bit. And then when sunset allowed a panoramic burst of sunlight to transform that porch into something golden, you could feel the mood of the place increase by 67 percent. Of course, that mood couldn’t be sustained if the kitchen were inattentive or the serving team was off its game, but On the Verandah came through, just like that unexpected September sunshine. Tricia and I had settled on the tapas route, planning to load the table with a host of small plates – Fried Brussels Sprouts; Lobster Piccata; Fried Brie paired with Candied Pecans and served with Toasted Baguettes. We balanced those selections with a pair of Summer Strawberry Salads, which seemed like the correct tonic for the week of depressing weather – Baby Spinach tossed with Strawberry Vinaigrette, Toasted Walnuts, Fresh Strawberries, and Feta Cheese. (See – doesn’t that sound just as cheerful as that blessed golden sunset?) But here’s the thing – our carefully balanced dining plan was jettisoned by the unswerving cheerleading of our server Hailey – she flashed a 125-watt smile and charmed (coerced?) us into just considering the Entrees, and from then we were lost. Added to the bill of fare – Natural Chicken, grilled and served with carefully-calibrated Chimichurri, Black Beans, and Yellow Rice; and Fresh NC Trout accompanied by lemon-butter. These were each exquisite and each paired with selections from OTV’s vast wine selection. This is where that relentlessly cheerful Hailey came through again – it’s turns out she has an almost encyclopedic knowledge of OTV’s wine program and knew how to wield it. Later, I did a deeper dive into that wine program and discovered why the staff was so warm and attentive. It all comes down to the fact that owner/chef Andrew Figel treats everyone in the place like family. Every year, during the fallow winter months, he takes everyone on wine trips across the country – places like Sonoma and Napa and the Willamette Valley. They visit vineyards and explore the operations of dozens of labels. And they’re little vintners, not the major corporations that are wrestling control of the market in unprecedented numbers. Owner / Chef Andrew Figel and his crew build personal relations with these operators and he’s stocked the restaurant with their exclusive vintages. That explains the strength of On the Verandah’s wine list, and it also explains the marvelously comforting manner of the staff. They’re treated like family, and those annual wine trips keep everyone knowledgeable and imbued with the knowledge that they’re valued. If you’d like to experience the fruits of those wine trips and discover for yourself whether Hailey was paying attention on those trips, make reservations for On The Verandah’s Argyle Wine Dinner, set for November 11. It’s a marvelous six-course event, with dishes selected by OTV’s trio of sommeliers to perfectly match Arygle’s bubbly vintages.

by Luke Osteen
photos by Susan Renfro