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Stationed in History

Named one of the “coolest and most eclectic whistle-stop era restaurants” by Maxim, Grand Olde Station is more than a dining destination—it’s a living tribute to Lake Toxaway’s past and infused with culinary vision.

Written by: Marlene Osteen

Photographed By: Susan Renfro

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When Maxim magazine called Grand Olde Station “one of the coolest and most eclectic whistle-stop era restaurants” they’d ever encountered, owner John Nichols knew his vision was resonating.

But for Nichols, this recognition represents more than business success – it’s the culmination of a lifetime devoted to preserving and sharing Lake Toxaway’s extraordinary history.

Few restaurateurs can claim such deep roots in their community’s story.

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Nichols’ grandfather, Reginald Heinitsh, was instrumental in Lake Toxaway’s resurrection, purchasing the lakebed in 1960 and rebuilding the dam that had catastrophically failed in 1916.

Nichols himself was born in 1969, while his family was living in the attic of what is now the Greystone Inn, later moving to the caretaker’s cottage. He spent his childhood on the property, absorbing the lake’s legends while watching groundskeepers work and learning to swim in the original Greystone pool.

His family’s 1896 house sits on the same peninsula where Vanderbilts and Fords once disembarked, its porch offering the identical vista that inspired turn-of-the-century investors to develop this “America’s Switzerland.”

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It was June 2021 when Nichols opened Grand Olde Station, at the height of the pandemic, but he wasn’t merely responding to a dining void left by Covid.

In transforming the 1902 railroad depot that once welcomed those same gilded-age visitors, he was completing a circle that began with his grandfather’s vision to restore the lake. The building itself tells Lake Toxaway’s complete story — from its 1902 origins as a railroad depot serving the historic Toxaway Inn, through its transformation into McNeely’s General Store, then the Brown Trout Restaurant, to its current incarnation as a culinary shrine to local history.

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This intimate connection to Lake Toxaway’s past informs every detail at Grand Olde Station, from salvaged doors from the long-demolished Toxaway Inn that serve as tabletops to the extensive collection of local memorabilia donated by community members. Stuffed local wildlife and antique boat motors create an atmosphere Maxim described as combining “kitsch-filled train themes” with “serious wine lists and sophisticated food.”

Nichols’ commitment to preservation extends beyond the restaurant itself – his passion for documenting this history has led to a collaboration with Emmy Award-winning filmmaker Dan Johnson, his neighbor on the lake, to create a comprehensive documentary about Lake Toxaway’s remarkable story. Johnson, a 24-time Emmy-winner with credits including Olympic Broadcasting Services and national television programming, brings professional expertise to Nichols’ deep historical knowledge and personal collection of artifacts spanning more than a century. Nichols recently hosted a private screening of the documentary for friends at his farm four miles from the restaurant.

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The restaurant’s evolution accelerated with January’s arrival of Director of Operations Tim Piccolo, who arrived with an impressive pedigree. After selling his successful Athens restaurants in 2016 and most recently managing a chain of Chicken Salad Chick franchises, Piccolo brings both chef credentials and operational expertise that caught Nichols’ attention during an extensive search.

“John has been incredible to work with,” Piccolo reflects, noting how the owner’s vision and the property’s unique character made accepting the position “a no-brainer.”

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The timing couldn’t be better. Grand Olde Station has found its rhythm since opening, drawing both locals who dine multiple times weekly and destination diners attracted by the restaurant’s museum-like atmosphere.

Piccolo’s menu additions reflect his Italian steakhouse background while respecting the restaurant’s Southern roots. New offerings include artisanal pizzas, elevated rib-eye preparations with sophisticated sauces like steak Diane and au poivre, and signature appetizers including bruschetta and the restaurant’s now-famous fried green tomatoes. These additions complement enduring favorites that have proven their staying power: crab cakes, wedge salads, hamburgers, and Chef JP’s locally-sourced trout preparations that remain the restaurant’s signature dishes. The strategic menu expansion aligns with Nichols’ long-term vision to serve the area’s resort clientele while maintaining the approachable atmosphere that keeps locals returning.

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Beyond the dining room, the restaurant leverages its impressive outdoor BBQ setup and food truck for catering and special events, ensuring staff employment while serving the broader community. Nichols also utilizes his nearby farm property for additional events, including the recently initiated Friday movie nights. The property’s unique character draws road rallies featuring everything from Porsches to Mini Coopers, creating an entertainment complex that honors the area’s automotive tourism heritage while providing multiple venues for community gathering.

Where once Thomas Edison and J.P. Morgan disembarked to reach the grand Toxaway Inn, today’s visitors discover a restaurant that honors that legacy while forging its own path forward. Guided by someone whose family literally rebuilt the lake itself, Grand Olde Station stands as both a testament to Lake Toxaway’s remarkable past and a bridge to its evolving future.

Visit grandoldestation.com for reservations and info.

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