An Evening at Lakeside Restaurant

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: 2018/05 - May | Photograph By: Marjorie Christiansen Photography

Lakeside Restaurant is set on the shores of Highlands’ little Harris Lake, arranged as though for a postcard. That charm carries over into the restaurant itself, its intimate  12-table dining room lined with whimsical art and served in soothing colors. 

You’re immediately at ease.

But Lakeside’s undeniable coziness is not simply a matter of that decor or even its setting. It’s the people, both in the Dining Room and, truly, deeply, the ones manning the kitchen.  

Owner Laura Huerta overseas the Dining Room and she sets the tone for the evening with a heartfelt greeting and an easy, confident manner. It feels like she’s inviting you into her home (now that I think about it, that’s probably what she’s doing) for an intimate meal.

Our server was Merrill and she continued that soft, enthusiastic welcome. She gave us the right amount of attention, careful not to interrupt our animated table, yet persistent enough to ensure everyone heard about the evening specials. 

Since we had a tableful of hungry people  and I don’t want this to end up reading like a culinary laundry list, let me present the standouts – the ones that halted all tabletop conversation with insistent declarations of “You’ve got to try this!” 

Two standout Appetizers were the Seafood Tower Ensalada and the Spring Melon Salad. The former is an astonishing assemblage of Tower Seafood Ensalada – crab, shrimp and lobster, black beans, corn, cilantro lime crema,  and avocado. I realize that in listing the ingredients I’m being a classic reductionist and I’ve flensed any sense of magic from this creation. It shouldn’t soar, but it does. Trust me on this.  

Well, it’s really no mystery with the latter – Honeydew and Cantaloupe, Granola, Goat Cheese,  and Raspberry Champagne Vinaigrette. I don’t know if there’s such a classification, but this is my nomination for the Official Taste of Spring. This is sublime dining.

For Entrées, there were a trio of standouts – Cast Iron-Seared Scallops, Soy Demi-Glace Grilled Salmon, and North Carolina Rainbow Trout. 

I realize that’s astonishing to list three aquatic dishes served in a mountain town far from the coast, but Lakeside has developed an unvarnished reputation for marvelous seafood creations over the course of its 29 years. Maybe it’s the proximity to Harris Lake. (Just kidding. Harris is home to a small community of fat, lazy sunfish. Worry if Sunfish ever shows up on the menu. And even though Duck is featured on the menu, I have it on good authority that Harris’ flotilla of ducks and geese has never been the source of Lakeside’s poultry. That’s despite its commitment to Locally-Sourced Ingredients.)

The Scallops are served with an irresistible melange of Lemon Risotto, Spinach, Spring Peas and roasted Red Pepper. The Salmon, fresh from the coast, arrived with Asparagus aux Orange, Jasmine Rice Pilaf, and Coconut Anglaise. I lack the words to describe just how wonderful this turned out to be. Instead, let me tell you how quickly I cleaned my plate – four minutes.

And North Carolina Rainbow Trout, harvested earlier in the day, sautéed in Wine, Lemon and Butter? Well, if we can nominate Spring Melon Salad as the Official Taste of Spring, this has to be the official Flavor of the Highlands Summer Season. There can be no debate about this. 

Well, I’ve run out of space. Be sure to make reservations for this little jewel on the shore of Harris Lake by calling (828) 526-9419. View  the menu online at lakesiderestaurant.info.