Delicious Culinary Creations

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: November 2024 | Photograph By: Susan Renfro

Tricia and I leapt at our chance to visit Magliocca’s in Scaly Mountain on a chilly evening in October.

For the first reason, we were curious to see what changes had been rung on the place that had once housed the venerable Bella’s Junction Café. We’d shared many a lively meal and borderline raucous times with friends at Bella’s – the menu and atmosphere exerted a spell on diners that was irresistible.

And secondly, the sub-rosa Plateau Culinary Chatter had been buzzing for months with speculation about the possibilities that Chef Danny Magliocca would deliver.

(Not sure what I mean by Plateau Culinary Chatter? That’s the non-stop speculation and contemplation and outright rumor spinning that energizes the local restaurateurs and kitchen pros and dilettantes (like me). You can experience it for yourself – the next time you’re at your favorite dining spot, tilt your body forward so that one of your ears is resting comfortably on the table. Concentrate. Filter out all that extraneous noise and listen to the whispers that seem to emanate from the table itself.)

That speculation was warranted, because Chef Magliocca had already made a name for himself as the Chef de Cuisine for Highlands’ finest Italian Restaurant (after serving for years as the venerable Main Street institution’s Sous Chef). With a place of his own, would he bring forth a menu of outré selections that he’d been dreaming of for decades? Could he maintain that essential “Bella” sense of freewheeling fun or would he go for a formal tablecloth-and-candles dining experience?

Here’s what Magliocca himself promised with the opening of this Scaly Mountain restaurant bearing his name:

“At Magliocca’s Ristorante, our kitchen is the heart of our operation. I’ve been formulating and crafting delicious culinary creations for more than 30 years in the finest restaurants. With a focus on quality and creativity, our culinary team passionately prepares each dish, infusing it with rich traditions while adding our unique touch. We believe in using only the finest and freshest ingredients to ensure an exceptional dining experience for our guests.”

Holy Cow! Talk about a lot of promises embedded in a few sentences. Could Chef deliver on these bold statements?

Let’s find out.

Forget about that tablecloth-and-candlelight stuffiness. The place is cozy in the best possible sense, with its walls adorned with vintage Italian advertising posters and tables with couples leaning forward in animated conversations and extended families punctuating the air with laughter and cheery exchanges.

So yes, that fun, energizing Bella’s atmosphere is reproduced with astonishing fidelity and its pull is immediate.

But let’s remember that we’re here for the menu – and it’s with this that Chef Magliocca demonstrates his decades of accumulated kitchen wisdom.

There are adornments like Caprese Salad (seasoned heirloom tomatoes with fresh burrata, basil and a balsamic drizzle) and Arancini (Risotto stuffed with pancetta and parmigiano Reggiano coated with breadcrumbs and lightly fried); and mains like Veal Scallopini (veal lightly breaded and sauteed with piccata sauce and capers) and Stuffed Grouper (with shrimp, scallops and artichoke, with a splash of white wine lemon sauce) and – this being the Plateau – Trout Francoise (local trout, egg battered, lemon white wine sauce).

Tricia ordered the Chicken Parmesan, an Italian menu staple that lays down a marker for the kitchen’s skill.

And there it was – lightly breaded chicken breast with melted mozzarella, homemade marinara served with pasta – served with imagination and obvious pride. Chef Danny is true to all the lessons that he learned over those decades.

For me – Chicken Rollatini, a delirious serving of chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto & mozzarella. Again, this dish was fresh, a clear testament to Chef’s commitment to local sourcing and the kitchen’s clever culinary imagination.

But there’s one final component to Magliocca’s magical dining experience – the front-of-house staff who keep everything moving with grace and gentle good humor.

For years now, I’ve been reminding readers and diners to get to know the wait staff – it’s all part of the local restaurant scene that adds immeasurably to the charm of the meal and gives each repast a blessed portion of hospitality.

At Magliocca’s, make the acquaintances of Teresa, Lana and Ryan, and Trish. Each is a sparkling personality and its heaps of fun to watch them gracefully pinball through the tiny dining room. If you’re so inclined, give a shout out to Chef Danny, Jackson, Trudie, and Cat in the kitchen – yeah, it’s that kind of place!

Since we’re in a particularly busy time for local restaurants – you’ll want to make reservations – (828) 526-0803.