Feeding Your Soul

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: June 2024

Way back in 1988, Julia Daugette, the legendary Highlands painter whose work is treasured in galleries and private collections around the world, took me to dinner at On the Verandah.

Julia told me that she was never at a loss for inspiration when considering her next painting.

“What kind of artist could ever come up empty?  This entire corner of Western North Carolina is one big canvas,” she said.

Julia explained that in particular she treasured her meals at On the Verandah.

“First of all, there’s the light – it feeds something in your soul and if that’s not enough to spark your imagination and your mood, you should consult your physician,” she said, pointing to Lake Sequoyah at Golden Hour.

Sure enough, the dining room had acquired an irresistible glow that served as an immediate mood elevator.

“And also, whenever your bank account is starting to look a little threadbare and you’re not quite sure you can pay your mortgage, it’s the perfect time to treat yourself to a marvelous meal.”

Well, here we are 37 years later, and Julia’s wisdom remains unimpeachable.

Tricia and I dined at this venerable Highlands institution in an early evening in May. Just like that happy meal so long ago, the sun was dropping below the mountains and the lake seemed to glitter like a nighttime window display at Tiffany’s. And the dining room conversations were becoming more animated, more fervent.

Owner/Executive Chef Andrew Figel and Chef de Cuisine Brandi Peters have unveiled a new menu, and it’s a thing of beauty.

We started off with the Baby Iceberg Lettuce Salad drizzled with housemade Blue Cheese Dressing, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Red Onion and Heirloom Cherry Tomato, and the Baby Spinach Salad, drenched with Poppyseed Vinaigrette, Strawberries, Blueberries, Red Onion, Toasted Walnuts, and nuggets of Feta Cheese.

That Baby Spinach Salad deserves special mention – I can think of no purer distillation of early summer and its unabashed feast of the senses. Glorious!

But these two garden delights were simply previews of what the kitchen would deliver with our entrees – Fresh NC Trout impeccably prepared with Lemon Butter; and Pan Seared Duck paired with Apricot Curry Sauce and Couscous.

And Tricia paired her meal with a David Paige Pinot Blanc ot the recommendation of our server Tate. Tate was vital to our evening with his deep knowledge of the menu and its marvels and that ready smile. This young man shines like a new dime and his easy presence just felt right, a callback to old Highlands where no one was a stranger.

It all comes down to the fact that Figel treats everyone in the place like family. Every year, during the fallow winter months, he takes everyone on wine trips across the country – places like Sonoma and Napa and the Willamette Valley. They visit vineyards and explore the operations of dozens of labels.

That explains the strength of On the Verandah’s wine list, and it also explains the marvelously comforting manner of the staff. They’re treated like family, and those annual wine trips keep everyone knowledgeable and imbued with the certainty that they’re valued.

Oh, and since I invoked the golden memory of Juila Daugette at the start of this, let me reveal one more blast from the past.

That’s Jeri Fifer in the kitchen, handcrafting OTVs dessert lineup.

Back in the 1980s, Jeri owned and operated The Frog & Owl Café, situated in a log cabin far, far down Buck Creek Road (it felt like you were driving to a far corner of The Twilight Zone). This little place (8-10 tables?) had acquired an international reputation and I remember having to make reservations three months in advance.

But here she is, still at the top of her game and still sweet as an apple on Christmas Day.