Let Your Taste Buds Travel, Cyprus Restaurant

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: 2018/07 - July | Photograph By: Marjorie Christiansen Photography

My son, born and raised a Highlander, arrived in this world with a serious case of wanderlust.

The earliest books he loved dealt with kids in exotic lands, far from his little hometown. When we’d plan a family vacation, he’d meticulously research the destinations and learn a few phrases and list the foods that he wanted to try.

In high school, Highlands Rotary allowed him to spend a year in Pamplona, Spain, where he learned to appreciate Basque cooking and the intricacies of Spanish wines.

Later, after college, he joined the Peace Corps and was stationed in a tiny village in the cloud forests of Honduras. It was there he acquired a passion for simple cooking with all-natural ingredients. And food with the occasional insect.

Back in the US and upon entry into the business world, Alex ended up in Portland, Oregon, a cosmopolitan city heavily influenced by the Pacific Rim’s full spectrum of flavors. As a young bachelor, he plunged into Portland’s heady restaurant culture, eating his way around the world.

All this is a roundabout way to get to this month’s restaurant review.

Alex announced last month that he’d be returning for a whirlwind 48-hour return to his hometown, anxious to show his first serious love the little town that he came from. She’s an Oregon native, the product of the Portland suburbs, and though he tried to paint a picture of a community that has a year-round population of a little more than 980 souls, let’s face it, there’s really no good way to explain
the Plateau.

So with only a few hours in his hometown, Alex insisted that we all visit Cyprus, the restaurant with the greatest commitment to global cuisine.

After a day spent hiking, we ended up dining al fresco on Cyprus’ sun-dappled deck. In the past, Tricia and I have dined inside, but if it’s not raining, we lean toward eating outdoors.

(Don’t be disappointed if it’s rainy and the deck is closed. Inside, you can watch Chef/Owner Nick Figel’s meticulously-trained kitchen staff prepare the meals. It’s hypnotic and irresistible, like some wild Food Channel reality series.)

Anyway, with a tableful of hungry people, we ordered appetizers − Truffle Dressed Arugula Salad; Cyprus Signature Salad (Fresh Harvest Vegetables and Lemon Vanilla Vinaigrette), Sacred Basil Calamari (this was a callback to an award-winning essay Alex wrote in seventh grade, “New Squid,” about his encounter with raw squid at a Sushi Counter. It was the first time I realized the kid had the skills to be a writer); Ring of Fire Shrimp (Kim Chee, Ginger Tamari, and Hot Mustard); and Parmegiano Reggiano Eggplant.

For our Main Course, our server brought Pad Thai Noodles with Goat; Poblano Goat Relleno(Chipotle Roasted Red Pepper Puree, Mango Pico de Gallo, Jasmine Rice); Morrocan Steak Flambé (Fennel-Citrus Liquor, Fig, Glacé de Viande); Paris Café Steak and Fries; and Gruyere Chicken and Mussels (with Tarragon, Cognac Cream, and Handmade Pasta).

This was all served with aplomb and confidence. See what I mean about international cuisine? See why Alex would naturally gravitate to Cyprus? And see why he’d invite his girlfriend to sample what’s best about his little hometown?

Reservations are a must at Cyprus. Call (828) 526-4429. It’s located at 332 Main Street, right in the middle of downtown Highlands.