Like No Other

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: May 2023 | Photograph By: Susan Renfro

Tricia and I scorched the phone line (I know, I’m old) to register our reservation to Lakeside Restaurant. That’s because this little place, just one block from Highlands’ Main Street, is arranged to soothe jangled nerves and comfort a tummy that’s operated for too long on hastily conceived meals.

First of all, Lakeside feels like no other place on the Plateau. The mood is set by its sunny dining room, adorned with, well, I was going to say large wildlife portraits, but it’s probably more accurate to describe them as wild-life wildlife portraits. I challenge you not to smile when you gaze around the room.

The playfulness is sustained by a smiling, quietly confident staff that clearly adore their workplace and its menu. We were served by Sue, and she was heaps of fun in explaining the evening’s specials and her view of them. I’ll repeat what’s turning out to be a theme in my Post-Pandemic Reviews – you’re missing 60 percent of the essence of Plateau Dining if you ignore your server!

But that unabashed Lakeside seduction began even earlier than the arrival of Sue at our table. That’s the province of manager Keely Reeme, who delivers a broad smile and hearty greeting when you step through the door. In fact, she set the tone for the entire evening.

And of course, there was owner Laura Huerta gliding through her dining room like one of those Pekin Ducks paddling across the lake five yards out the window. Laura’s always keeping an eye on things, and she visits each table with a smile and a quick word.

But all of this was setting the stage for the meal itself, and that’s where the talents of Chef Kevin Turner, Sous Chef Todd Grove, and Pastry Chef Rosa Cabrera were allowed to continue Lakeside’s relentless seduction.

First up, Tomato Florentine Soup, fresh and somehow infused with Spring sunshine. What a graceful wake-up call to the entire season of sensations.

I was presented with Tuna Tartare Nachos – a dangerously addictive concoction of crispy wontons, wakami salad, sesame seeds, soy glaze, and wasabi cream.

The main courses were equally confident – Grouper Maison and Soy Demi-Glace Grilled Salmon.

The grouper dazzled – served up with artichoke hearts, cremini mushrooms, and a carefully-balanced lemon & wine sauce.

Though Tricia raved about that amazing piece of fish, I won the night with my choice of salmon. I would have hugged that noble fish, but it looked too good arranged on its plate with asparagus aux orange, jasmine rice pilaf, and a marvelous coconut cream sauce.

With these entrées, you’re probably thinking, “That’s Enough,” but you’d be wrong.

There was an astonishing Bread Pudding awaiting us! Though I haven’t held back in my praise for Lakeside, it’s imperative that you adjust your dining plans to leave room for this sweet, sweet delight. Drenched in rum, it’ll linger in your memory for days, and seduce you into coming back posthaste.

by Luke Osteen / photos by Susan Renfro