¡Que Rico!

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: December 2024 | Photograph By: Mary Gilian

Let me start out by noting that Casa Amigos, the new Mexican dining destination in Sapphire, enjoys a vast – almost encyclopedic – menu and a fully-stocked bar manned by a clever barkeep.

But four out of the six people at our table insisted that I lead this review with “Their house-made salsa is sensational!”

That’s right – a couple of bowls of salsa, the indispensable Mexican restaurant staple that’s paired with tortilla chips, margaritas, and cervezas to function as pacifiers until he entrees arrive – were judged so “fresh,” “perfectly spiced” and “extraordinary,” that I’m forced to give them top-billing in this story.

(If this seems fanciful, I’d remind you that one of those table guests was Col. Robert Sanders, a native of Spring, Texas, who was raised on Tex-Mex cuisine and has a heady mixture of Tapatio and Modelo Especial coursing through his veins. He’ll fight you over this.)

Since I mentioned margaritas in passing, let me state that our table was balanced with medium-sized Texas Margaritas.

A Texas Margarita is distinguished from its more sober (relatively-speaking) brethren by the application of jalapeño agave. When that unique hot sweetness is blended with tequila and lime, well, it’s a sensation that’s the gustatory equivalent of a mariachi band setting up on your palate.

Now I’m on record for not liking the taste of alcohol, but this was simply irresistible.

Note that I mentioned everyone had ordered Mediums. I’m assuming a Large Texas Margarita would be truly Grande – large enough to bathe a Chihuahua.

OK – now that I’ve placated all those insistent salsans at the table, let’s move on to the heart of this review, that enormous menu and the products of its adroit, innovative kitchen.

Our table was filled with plates of Chiles Poblano, Carne Asada, Pollo Fundido, Beef Tacos, Fish Tacos, Pollo a la Parrilla (grilled chicken fillet topped with grilled onions and pico de gallo), and the astonishing Pina de Loca (fresh pineapple stuffed with grilled chicken, shrimp, chorizo, mushrooms, and onions, topped with melted cheese – “Loca?” Oh, yes! But it works, magically!).

I still haven’t figured out how that kitchen rides herd on such a mammoth menu and turns out the orders with remarkable efficiency and obvious confidence.

That confidence extends to the wait staff, who serve up the dishes and the drinks and the tiempos felices with obvious pride and grace.

I’ll say it again – you’re missing out on 30 percent of the joy of Plateau Dining if you’re not engaging with your servers. I have yet to be treated as less than a cherished friend by the front-of-the-house staff at every restaurant I’ve reviewed over the last 10 years.

This happiness is multiplied by the fact that even though it’s only been in existence for a few months, Casa Amigos has quickly emerged as an unofficial Sapphire watering hole. That smart bar and authentic menu has enticed a terrific cross-section of locals, seasonal residents and those just passing through. Not to get too metaphysical, but you can feel the good vibes.

Those good vibes are enhanced by the décor of the place – there’s a definite elegance, which makes it stand out from your standard Mexican restaurant. A lot of the art that adorns the walls comes from Mexico, only enhancing the authenticity of the menu.

And that fun spirit extends to the patio that extends across the back of the property. The space is anchored by a beautiful fireplace that somehow bolsters the high spirits of Los Amigos.

So outdoor dining, a fireplace, those carefully crafted entrees, those big margaritas and chilled cervezas and, somehow, those generous bowls of salsa – it’s everything you need to turn a meal into a fiesta!

If it seems somehow familiar, Los Amigos is owned by the same family that have given us Los Vaqueros in Highlands and Toxaway. These people know what they’re doing.

With its newness, you can still walk in and get a table or find a spot at the bar, but this being the Plateau in the 2020s, it wouldn’t hurt to call ahead for reservations – (828) 866-3144.