Raising the Bar

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: 2018/03 - March | Photograph By: Marjorie Christiansen Photography

T

hanks to a welcoming spirit that can only be described as “canine” and a deep understanding of the intricacies of food, drink and conversation, The Ugly Dog Pub has become the night spot in Highlands.

It serves as a bright exclamation point at the summit of Fourth Street. The Ugly Dog acts as a getaway for locals looking to escape the March doldrums, and a callback to those who cherish memories of a
neighborhood pub. 

The Ugly Dog’s almost always bustling and things can get raucous at times, yet the atmosphere doesn’t overwhelm, it just invites you to join in the good feelings. 

We arrived with a tableful of friends, hungry and ready to chat. The place invites conversation, and if it has downtime, I’ve never witnessed it. Of course, a portion of the ensuing conversation is lubricated with  concoctions formulated at The Ugly Dog’s full bar. Since this is an unabashed public house, you can expect to find a full slate of local craft beers, choice wines, and classic and modern cocktails. Their mix-wizards are fast and supremely confident.  

And with those drinks came a full complement of bar food – our table was quickly groaning under platters of Fried Green Tomatoes, Jalapeno Macaroni Bites, and an enormous plate (How large? Slightly smaller than a geologic formation.) featuring the Ugly Dog Dip. The latter is a marvelous melange of spicy sausage, cream cheese and lovely fresh tomatoes. Everyone dove in with lavosh and tortilla chips and made short work of this creation. 

Still, we were there for an honest-to-goodness meal, and The Ugly Dog menu provided a kennel’s worth of choices. After a good deal of deliberation, since we wanted a balanced bill of fare suitable for sharing, we settled on  Shaved Beef Philly Sandwiches, Pan-Roasted Salmon, Chicken Wings, Brussel Sprouts well-marinated and somehow perfectly textured, and (yes, someone made a point of ordering this) Bleu Cheese Cole Slaw. 

At this point the table conversation dwindled, since we all chose to dive into these treats with the single-minded enthusiasm of my sweet, fat dog Olive, who makes a point of hanging around the dish all day. Occasionally someone would remark about the flavors and no one growled about sharing, so it was a happy meal. 

Naturally, despite the layers of plates that had piled up on the table, we had to
order dessert. 

(Please, Laurel Reader, whoever you are, do not be the person who says she doesn’t have room for dessert. Every day you owe yourself dessert – it’s vital for mental health and, I’m just going to make this up, your physical well-being. Also, don’t tell your dining partner that you’ll just share a dessert. That puts them in an awful position.)

We ended up with slices of Orange Rum Cake and a couple dishes of Mixed Berry Cobbler. 

Sadly for my dog Olive and ironically for a place called The Ugly Dog, there wasn’t enough left over for a single Doggie Bag. We were full and stupid and deeply satisfied. This is what a night out with friends should be.

The Ugly Dog opens at 11:30 A.M. and keeps going until way late. It serves up a marvelous Sunday Brunch. If you’re dining with a large party, it’s always a good idea to call ahead. Call (828) 526-8264.