Served Up With Care

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: August 2023

It was a delight to get the assignment for a review of DonLeon’s, newly ensconced across the road from Dusty’s in Highlands.

That’s because I knew what I was getting into – a reunion with an old friend (and that includes the eternally patient, relentlessly cheerful Susan, who’s stationed at the counter and is always ready with a quip or a report on the state of the kitchen or the world); and, of course, a menu of lunch favorites and sides, served up with care.

Let’s roll back the years, way back to the early aughts and I’ll explain the frisson of excitement I felt when Marjorie sent me on this rendezvous.

DonLeon’s Deli in Highlands, located in the building that now houses Los Vaqueros, was the stuff of legends. It was the place where you could find a meal under 10 bucks and, this is important, keep tabs on the comings and goings of this little mountain town.

And at the center of the show was the irrepressible DonLeon himself, a garrulous force of nature who knew his way about a quick-serve kitchen and a story. To Don Leon, you were a regular, even if you were walking in for the first time.

That’s why it hit hard when DonLeon suddenly up and left town, succumbing to a wanderlust and a sense that new adventures were awaiting, just over the horizon.

And that’s why it was an equal astonishment in 2020 to hear the news that DonLeon, after a decade-long absence, was back in Hi Town.

He has opened at 462 Dillard Road, complete with a comfy dining room and outdoor dining. He’s serving up a menu of Gyros, Chicken Pitas, Burgers, Philly Cheese Steaks, Wings, Greek Salads, and Chicken Tenders, and lots more.

Tricia fell in love with a Sabch Pita, an Israeli version of the classic Gyro – authentic Israeli pita, fresh chopped veggies, sauteed veggies, chopped egg, feta cheese, and tzatziki.

Our friend, who was in something of a predatory mood, chowed down on the Angus Burger – herbed Angus topped with applewood-smoked bacon and cheddar cheese, served up between a ciabatta bun.

For me, it was an old favorite from DonLeon’s food truck days – Billy Bob’s Fish Fillet Sandwich – glorious fried cod on one of those ciabatta buns.

As I was peckish, I went ahead and included a Basket of Fries, which is featured on the menu under the heading of “Small Stuff.” Consumer Alert – there’s nothing small about this basket of chips smothered in cheddar cheese and laced with barbecued pork! This is a face-first plunge into the best of pub food! No regrets!

And of course, overseeing this entire enterprise is the irrepressible DonLeon, who labors in the kitchen, yet finds time to wander amidst the tables and converse with everyone. It’s a wonderful performance and he’s magnetic in his populist pull.

DonLeon and Susan

It’s why Highlanders remembered him after a decade’s-long absence, and it’s absolutely charming. Of course, Susan sets the tone for the visit with her easy chatting at the counter. In fact, both of them asked about my new dog from Cashiers-Highlands Humane Society and my son, who they haven’t seen in 10 years. How’s that for embedding yourself into small town life?

Whether you’re a lifelong Plateau dweller or someone just passing through, DonLeon is saving a table for you.