Skyline’s Got the Sizzle | Oak Steakhouse

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: 2021/10 – October | Photograph By: Andrew Cebulka

When I made reservations to Oak Steakhouse at Skyline Lodge, my head was dancing with visions of classic steakhouses from the past – elegantly-overstuffed chairs and banquettes, the air thick with cigar smoke, and whispered conversations punctuated with rough laughter as politicians and mobsters staked out the course of elections and public “munificence” projects.

It seemed impossible that such a setting could exist in the 21st century, let alone at Skyline Lodge, which for decades had defined itself as a getaway from precisely those environments.

But the place’s new owners had promised a new look and a new energy, while still delivering on that promise of escape from the rigors and strain of life off the Plateau.

We were first struck by the liberating design of the dining room itself. If you’d dined at the lodge over the last decade, you’ll recall the space being shaded and emitting an almost imperceptible chill, overdrawn by the gray granite surfaces. 

Now, mirroring the lodge’s Mid-Century Modern aesthetic, the space is inviting, with sleek lines and warm colors and subtle lighting. The three glass pendant light fixtures add an otherworldly feel that’s reflected in the vaulted space. The two original stone fireplaces extend the invitation that’s offered by the languid stroll to the dining room itself.  There’s a patio area and the dining room opens upon a vista of woods and distant ridges.

The energy of the place is upbeat and chic and deeply sensual. 

That’s reflected in the menu itself, which emphasizes locally-sourced ingredients. And, of course, the grass-fed Certified Angus Beef that’s at the heart of this enterprise.

Standouts from the appetizers were the Spinach Salad and the Smoked Trout Rillettes. 

Now the cynical among you may be shaking your head about spotlighting a Spinach Salad, as it’s been an inconspicuous supporting player in trendy restaurants since the 1970s.

But this girl was laced with toasted pine nuts, dried cherries, chunks of Granny Smith apple and an irresistible sorghum vinaigrette. What a quintessential Highlands Autumnal Flavor!

And then there were the entrees themselves. Clearly the grade of beef and the care taken in its preparation are the selling points of this restaurant. 

My buddy Michael ended up with the Dry-Aged Ribeye, and I devoured my Prime Ribeye. 

By comparison tasting, it was clear that the dry-aging process imparts a distinctive bleu-cheese flavor, which adds to the savor of each forkful. 

Ever the outlier, Stuart Ferguson (the Stuart who writes our monthly Local Literary History feature), ordered the Venison Wellington, a magnificent creation of rich venison complemented with smoked bacon, peach gastrique, and wild mushrooms, enrobed in a buttery pastry.

Let’s let Stuart describe this showstopper: “As a confirmed Bonapartist partisan, it pains me to order a dish named after the evil victor of Waterloo, but my Venison Wellington was sooooo delicious and a definite culinary victory even if the duxelles in the dish didn’t bar the road to Bruxelles, as Wellington’s victory at Waterloo did. It was moist and tasty and wonderful.”

Well, I’ve once again squandered my word count. 

Let’s just say I could write another 300 words about this meal. 

And, were I more talented, compose an opera about our desserts. Let me just name them: Blackberry Sorbet adorned with Lemon Zest; Sorghum Caramel Cake (paired with Sorghum Ice Cream), and Peach Souffle (presented with warm peach sauce, Honey Ice Cream and a delicate lace tuile). 

Be prepared to take your entree and sides home with you to ensure you have room for dessert. That’s not hpyerbole!  

Oak Steakhouse is located in Skyline Lodge on, of course, Skyline Lodge Road in Highlands.

by Luke  Osteen

photos by Andrew Cebulka