The Blind Mule at Toxaway Station

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: 2017/06 - June | Photograph By: Marjorie Christiansen Photography

I’m starting this review of The Blind Mule at Toxaway Station a bit differently from my standard form.

Strawberry Crumble and Limoncello Cake.  

 I thought I’d throw those out to you right now, at the launch of this essay.

They’re the inevitably grand cap to a memorable meal that Tricia and I shared over the course of a languorous Friday evening.

Now, if this were my standard review, we’d have launched into a critique of the décor and atmosphere of the chosen restaurant, followed by an earnest description of the appetizers, salads, soups and entrees we encountered along the way. There’d inevitably be a digression involved, and a few remarks about the service, and then, and only then, would I get around to the dessert. 

To my regret, month after month, there just wouldn’t be enough space to sing the praises of those divinely-inspired desserts, those sweet, sweet grace notes to all the remarkable meals that this job has placed before me. 

Not this time. This time dessert finally gets its due. 

I had the insight to order the Strawberry Crumble – a dangerously rich concoction of butter (lots of butter), sugar, brown sugar and strawberries that had probably been soaking up the sun in a field in Rosman a few hours before. I imagine that this constituted some sort of Platonic Ideal, captured at a little place 100 yards from the shores of Lake Toxaway. Don’t let anyone tell you that this isn’t the
Age of Miracles.

Tricia, acting on the advice of our server Debra, ended up with a generous slice of Limoncello Cake. This creation swerved way over into decadent with its light, pillow-y lemon cake liberally drenched with Limoncello. Sweet, tart and immensely seductive, it was difficult to convince Tricia to share with me. 

If you end up at The Blind Mule, please save room for their desserts. They will follow you into your dreams that night. 

For the dinner itself, we went the small plate route and there were no regrets. 

Tricia began her meal with the House Salad. It was an honest piece of work – clear testimony to Chef James Hargis’ commitment to locally-sourced meals. The fields of Transylvania and Jackson counties and the gentle spring we’ve all enjoyed clearly made this salad possible. 

 I chose the Caesar Salad. That’s something that should be pretty easy for a restaurant, but so many just can’t get it right. The Blind Mule gets it. Romaine Lettuce, Parmesan Cheese, Garlic  Croutons. Creamy Caesar Dressing and, this is crucial, Anchovies. Glorious.

We set the stage for those desserts with Vegetarian Tika Masala, Rabbit Fricassee Bucatini, and Duck Fat Fries. They were deeply satisfying and I’m going back for more of that Tika Masala.

“Part of the secret of success in life is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside.” That’s Mark Twain and he’s right. The thing is, there wasn’t a battle in my stomach. Everyone got along and I settled into a warm sense of contentment.

Here’s one of the great things about The Blind Mule – they’re generous with their servings. True to our dessert strategy, we asked for Doggie Bags to ensure there was room for the Crumble
and the Cake. 

The Blind Mule is located at 502 Blue Ridge Road. Along with dinner, it offers an internet cafe during breakfast and lunch hours. Dinner reservations are a must. Call (828) 553-8978.