The Fine Art of Brunching

Written By: Luke Osteen | Issue: 2020/03 - March

In previous restaurant reviews I’ve recounted the importance of breakfast as the cornerstone of a healthy day and ultimately a productive life. 

But in all those reviews, all those imprecations to enjoy this all-too-rushed morning ritual, I never turned my attention to Brunch, breakfast’s more civilized and elegant sister.

Brunch is an embossed invitation to savor the exquisite suite of palate provocateurs offered by the finest of breakfast and lunch choices. 

It’s a chance to share bites with someone you love; and a golden opportunity to kindle friendships at a large, loud table. I can’t recall a brunch crowd that didn’t feature lively conversations punctuated with explosions of laughter. It seems to me that brunch is a meal that’s an undeniable celebration. 

All of this brings us to Brunch HQ, the new spot dedicated to this most lively of meals. It’s located at the corner of Wright Square in Highlands and serves as a lively beacon of sunshine, especially on the gloomy days here before the season gets rolling. 

Tricia and I arrived on one of those mornings. 

Now I know some of you are cynically saying, “But Luke, you were just making the case that brunch is for big bunches of people coming together for a meal
and conversations!”

Well, I never said that two people couldn’t have lively conversations interrupted by laughter. That’s one of the reasons  Tricia and I so enjoyed our visit. 

And here’s further proof that the rules are different, more relaxed for brunch – after our meal, rather than hustle out the door and get lost in our busy day, we lingered and joined in a conversation with the 10-top at the center of the dining room. 

Normally, I’d be loathe to interrupt another table. But this was a cheerful group of friends and they were more than willing to talk about their dining experience and offer random observations. That’s the beauty of brunch – the rules are looser and the conversation is livelier.

Anyway, prior to being looped into our neighbors’ table, we settled in and enjoyed our brunch choices – for her, Eggs Benedict (two Poached Eggs over an English Muffin topped with housemade Hollandaise Sauce, served with Grits); and for me, The Lox Plate (a generous serving of Toasted Bagel, served with Smoked Salmon, Cream Cheese, Red Onion, Capers, and red, red Tomato). 

And right here, the Magic of Brunch. 

Tricia reminisced about happy, effervescent brunches (because, come on, where else is she going to get Eggs Benedict?) with friends who’ve since left this world. What happy, bittersweet stories served up with a knowing, wistful smile.

For me, sunshine-infused memories of business breakfasts in London with Scandanavian businesspeople who looked like models and spoke better English than I. Loads of stories, lots of laughs. 

Brunch HQ specializes in serving locally-sourced eggs and the meats (bacon, sausage, and sandwich meats) are produced at Hickory Nut Gap Farm, just down the road. The milk and cream comes from the good cows at Hickory Hill Farm. Even the jams and jellies that adorn the toast are produced in small batches at Jarhead Farm in Toccoa, Georgia.

And here’s the thing – you can taste that freshness, that attention to detail in all the dishes coming out of the kitchen. Our choices were served with aplomb and well-earned confidence. This is the epitome of comfort food. 

For our new friends at the adjoining table, it was Shrimp and Grits (laced with Locally-Sourced Chorizo Sausage, an unexpected delight made to a Southern Brunch Classic ); Avocado and Swiss Crostini; and Buttermilk Pancakes (jammed with a heap of fresh blueberries). 

Of course, there were other dishes on that liveley table, but the conversation was so fluid and haphazard that I couldn’t record other impressions.

This carefully calibrated atmosphere, which allows a normally reserved restaurant reviewer to strike up an animated conversation with an adjoining table, is maintained by the presence of owner Amanda Lewis, who pinballs amongst the tables with a relentlessly cheerful manner. (A favorite phrase of hers is, “I woke up this morning to serve you.”)

Oh, and before I wrap this up, let me state with unalloyed enthusiasm that Brunch HQ has a marvelously indulgent selection of baked goods, produced fresh daily in that marvelous kitchen, creations that you can take home with you. 

As I write this, I’m nibbling on a scone from their kitchen. And Amanda is firm about maintaining an array of gluten-free pastries. This is wonderful news for people like my writing partner Les Scott, who mourns the disappearance of so many treats from his carefully-maintained world.

Brunch HQ is located at 137 Main Street (Wright Square) in Highlands. Call (828) 820-8686 for large-party reservations, otherwise stroll on in.

Oh, and one more thing (I know!), Brunch HQ maintains a selection of board games, which is perfect for a languid brunch among friends and loved ones.

However, somewhere in that stack is a copy of Scruples. Do not choose this game! 

I don’t want to be included in a nasty lawsuit, so instead, the next time you see me around and you have a few minutes, ask me about the wince-inducing Game Night that I endured that featured an explosive game of Scruples and allowed me to witness the fracturing of two marriages. 

Stick to Scrabble!

by Luke Osteen