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Crushin’ On Syrah
Written By: Marlene Osteen | Issue: October 2024
Marlene’s love for Syrah is pure and unshakable.
My love affair with Syrah began many decades ago. Stylistically diverse, the varietal has made its home around the world – ranging from the minerally, peppery style of the Northern Rhône, its ancestral home, to the headier, more opulent style of Australian Shiraz.
Indeed, so profound was my crush on Syrah, that when I heard the bell sound about the Hospice du Rhone festival in San Luis Obispo in 1999, I couldn’t resist heeding the call. Its troubadour was Mat Garretson who had channeled his love for another Rhone varietal (Viognier) to start a winery in Paso Robles.
Garretson found a home for his festival at the Paso Roble Mid-State Fairgrounds and kicked off the 3-day bacchanalia with an annual bowling tournament – Rhone ‘n’ Bowl. Need I say more?
In truth, it was one of the most preposterous wine events I have ever attended – a downright quixotic celebration of a grape variety that at the time was little celebrated.
Garretson and his co-founder John Alban of Alban Vineyards had persuaded an impressive number of Rhone variety producers from all corners of the world to come to the central coast. At this most unpretentious of wine gatherings seminars were hosted by a dedicated band of winemakers, and I got to hobnob with the paragons of the wine world.
Garretson shuttered his namesake winery during the 2008 crash, but the message has spread, and there’s much to enjoy – wines that convey the character of the grapes of the places in which they are grown, shaped by the people who produced them.
Wines made of Syrah in its home territory, the northern Rhone Valley in France are gloriously fragrant, redolent of herbs, olives, roasted meats and flowers.
2019 J.L. Chave Selection “Silène” Crozes-Hermitage: “fleshy, flashy and bright, a wine that I found bursting with life;”
2020 Domaine Du Colombier Crozes Hermitage Rouge: From one of my favorite producers, the Crozes-Hermitage Domaine reveals a dense purple hue to go with a beautiful perfume of blue and black fruits.
Syrahs produced in California – all showing great syrah character:
2022 Tablas Creek “Patelin de Tablas” Paso Robles Rhône Blend: On the palate, black raspberry and mineral flavors with a Syrah-driven pancetta-like meaty note. The finish is deep and long, with bright acids, chalky tannins,
2022 Stolpman Syrah Estate, Santa Barbara, California: Dense, voluptuous and very easy to like with succulent dark cherry, and plum
As always, don’t serve these red wines too warm.
