Good Friends and Good Chili

Written By: Marlene Osteen | Issue: Winter 2024

Because it’s January, a month consumed by the fervor of the Super Bowl and all things football, our collective mindset invariably gravitates towards a culinary classic – Chili.

While aficionados cherish their favorite renditions and voice strong opinions on the optimal preparation, the one I turn to is from none other than my husband, Louis Osteen, a nationally recognized Southern chef and cookbook author. The delectability of this classic is rendered ever more delicious by the sweet story of the recipe’s origin in our restaurant in Pawleys Island, South Carolina. The charming narrative is recounted in the headnotes of his book, Louis Osteen’s Charleston Cuisine.

Marlene and Louis Osteen w ith John W hitmire, 1990s

John Henry’s Texas Schoolhouse Chili
John Henry Whitmire, a jeweler and bon vivant, is a great friend who resides in Pawleys Island.

One Labor Day Weekend, he burst into the restaurant kitchen during dinner like a tornado, asking for a little space to cook chili for the next day’s picnic. On the busiest weekend of the year, John Henry was under everybody’s feet borrowing knives and pots and pans and asking advice. When he finished with his chili, he asked the kitchen staff for its verdict. I declared that it was worse than the chili served at the schoolhouse on hot dogs. We all pitched in and repaired the chili so that the picnic could go on. Over the years we created a veal chili, naming it after John Henry, not for its taste, but for the good times and friends in Pawleys Island.*

Ingredients
– 2 tablespoons peanut oil
– 1 ½ pounds veal, hand chopped top-round or store-bought ground (beef may be substituted)
– 3 tablespoons minced garlic
– ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon chile powder
– 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano.
– 1 tablespoon ground cumin
– 2 teaspoons salt
– ¼ cup masa flour (see note)
– 5 cups veal stock or beef stock
– 1 cup dark beer
– 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
– 1 tablespoon Chili Paste with Garlic
– 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Directions
1. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the veal and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes or until it turns light brown, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the garlic, chile powder, oregano, cumin and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Stir to combine well. Reduce heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the flour and stir to combine well. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the stock and stir to combine. Bring the chili back to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, and cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes or until it has thickened, stirring occasionally.
3. Add the beer, stir to combine, and cook the chili for 20 minutes or until it thickens again. Add the vinegar, chili paste, pepper and remaining teaspoon of salt. Stir to combine and serve immediately.

Note: Masa flour is made from dried kernels of corn that have been cooked in limewater, then soaked overnight in limewater. The flour is then ground from these wet kernels. Since it is used to make tortillas, it is available in many grocery stores.