A Journey Through Remarkable Dishes

Written By: Marlene Osteen | Issue: December 2024

And so, it was. Just days after political tempests and weeks after weathering Hurricane Helene, – we came together at Highlands Food and Wine 2024 – united to celebrate resilience and the undaunted spirit of the South.

We feasted, danced, laughed, partied and paid homage to extraordinary musicians, and extraordinary chefs who brought their talent and soul to these mountains.

What follows is a journey through the remarkable dishes served as perfect companions to a thoughtfully curated selection of wines that graced this year’s event – each bite a testament to the creativity and passion of the chefs and winemakers who made Highlands Food & Wine unforgettable. From soul-warming Southern comfort to inventive new flavors, this was a weekend to savor and remember.

To the chefs who captivated our senses and filled our hearts: Thank You. Your bold flavors and unforgettable dishes are etched in our memories. It was a weekend defined by boundless hospitality and culinary brilliance.

Special thanks to the Asheville chefs who overcame immense challenges – from restaurant closures and city water crises to property damage – and still journeyed to Highlands with knives sharpened and spirits high.

And to our local champions, Chris Huerta of Old Edwards and Debbie Grossman of Fressers, who graciously opened their kitchens to make it all possible.

A standout applause goes to Chef Davis Taylor of Asheville’s Rhubarb. You wowed us at the Grand Tasting with your dish of coffee lacquered pork belly atop a cornbread-buttermilk puree with puffed sorghum and stewed apple and then stunned us once more at the Main Event with Crispy Confit Duck Wings served with Butterbean Slaw.

And to Gordon Gibbs of Flour Restaurant in Asheville, I’ll be dreaming of the luscious flavors of the Pici al Ragu Bianco – thick hand rolled pasta in a white wine braised pork meat sauce – you served at the Main Event. You are both our culinary heroes!

Thursday’s Grand Tasting kicked off the festivities, a vibrant showcase of culinary artistry.

Highlands’ own chefs brought their best: Madison’s hanger steak with caramelized onion, Oak Steakhouse’s decadent lobster roll, and One Wicker Cheese’s over-the-top mac ‘n’ cheese by Sophie Delaney. Markie Weinstein from The Ugly Dog stole the show with her spicy Italian beef sandwich – move over, Carmy! Other unforgettable bites included Chris Herzog’s lamb Wellington from The Ruffed Grouse Tavern, The Stubborn Buddha’s lamb korma, and The Secret Garden’s perfectly seared ahi tuna by Rachel Lewicki.

And we can’t wait for the Highlands Supper Club’s opening, where we can indulge in Aaron Kulzer’s Field Pea Sauté. Comfort found a home in Highlands with dishes like Highlands Smokehouse’s jambalaya, Fressers’ tomato basil bisque, and Paoletti’s cannelloni all’ Emiliana. Alongside our local chefs, Mark Bolchoz of Indaco took pasta to another level with his Radiatori Nero with Blue Crab – a dish that shocked me into shouts of delight!!

Truckin’ on Friday brought even more delights. The Crafty Goat’s buttermilk fried chicken oyster with pickled jalapeno grits exploded with flavor and New Moon’s scrumptious cider cake donuts were the buzz of the day. And who knew that you could not only create a burger from rice but make it taste great – JT Noah of Smashville did just that with his Vegan Mushroom & Wild Rice Burger, proving you don’t need beef to make a burger sing.

Saturday’s Main Event brought new revelations. Beginning with oysters from Trey McMillan of Charleston’s Low Country Oyster Company – raw ones wonderfully briny and cold, perfect for slurping. And roasted ones – deep cupped and lightly grilled in their still-warm shell voluptuously dressed in butter. Chefs Montgomery and Beraud of Leicester, North Carolina’s Montgomery Sky Farms delivered that “oh my gosh” moment with their mole short rib.

Speaking of chef Montgomery, Jessica Arellano of Eleven Events, the genius responsible for coordinating the participating chefs, captured it best: “You can taste the goodness of himself in his food.” And I can absolutely not stop thinking about the serious renditions of Tacos “Al Carbon” made by Marcelo Han of Superica – his excellent “Just Made” flour tortillas showcase the smoky marinated steak and charred onions, seared to order on a flat top.

And here’s to the pleasures of the final day – Sunday’s A Shot at Redemption. A feast that couldn’t be quelled by the rain. From Luke Owens of Greenville’s Native Dine Diner, your “curds & whey” – “big ole ricotta dumpling in a broth with winter greens and chives was perfection. Complex but not fussy, intelligent without sacrificing deliciousness, the dish embodied the ideal of indulgence through restraint.

The suckling pig sugo that Chef Dugan of Charleston’s Sorelle Restaurant served to lucky VIP ticket holders was most certainly the gastronomic interpretation of quiet luxury – a dinnerplate version of a cashmere sweater, rich and luscious throughout. And Kathleen Sharpe from Nashville’s All or Nothing Bagels delivered wood-fired sourdough bagels that redefined the bagel experience, the perfect final bite for an unforgettable weekend.

And so, to Highlands Food & Wine 2024, that’s a wrap – a triumph of fun, flavor, impeccable organization, and pure mountain spirit.

And cheers to HFW 2025 when we can gather once again to raise our forks and clink our glasses!