A Legend Has Retired

Written By: Marlene Osteen | Issue: Winter 2025

Once upon a time, a long, long time ago, Highlands was a sleepy tourist town that awoke only for a brief time during the summer months. In the late 20th century, it was nothing like the bustling, year-round resort town of luxury accommodations and high-priced real estate it is today.

In 1994, a German-born chef and his wife relocated from Dallas and purchased Hildegard’s – the restaurant in the Gray Cottage, one of Highlands’ oldest buildings. Now, 30 years later, the Greens have sold the restaurant, and Wolfgang’s closed its doors after one final meal on December 31, New Year’s Eve.

Over three decades, the Gray Cottage and Wolfgang’s business has witnessed and withstood profound change. It’s weathered storms, shifting populations, and the seismic transformation brought by Old Edwards Inn, which ushered in the town’s evolution into a year-round resort. Once a quiet seasonal retreat, Highlands has grown into what some now call an East Coast Aspen. The arrival of Covid brought its own upheaval, with staffing shortages and new challenges, yet Wolfgang’s adapted, evolving with the times while staying true to its roots.

It didn’t take long for the news of the closing to spread.

Within hours of Wolfgang and Mindy Green’s announcement, social media was flooded with memories and tributes. Tales of dinners at the restaurant poured forth, and reservations surged.

Many recalled special occasions spent at Wolfgang’s, like my own family gathering in the wine room following my husband’s death. Thoughtfully seated by Jacque, the longtime manager, we were given the privacy to share stories and grieve together – a small but meaningful act that typified the care Wolfgang’s was known for.

When the Greens took over Hildegard’s in 1994, the restaurant was in decline. Business was slow, and the reputation was poor. Mindy took to the streets, going door-to-door to invite locals to give them a chance.

“If we like it, we’ll come back. If we don’t, you’ll never see us again,” one business owner told her. Meanwhile, Wolfgang, drawing from his years of culinary experience, reworked the menu to include dishes that reflected his German heritage. It was a tough start, but the community ultimately responded with enthusiasm.

Importantly, the Greens received crucial support from other restaurateurs. Marta at On the Verandah and Mrs. P and Arthur at Paoletti’s offered advice and guidance. Marta reviewed the menu and helped them refine it, while Mrs. P provided practical tips on running a restaurant in Highlands. Their kindness and generosity were instrumental in helping Wolfgang’s find its footing.

Wolfgang and Mindy poured everything they had into the restaurant. They lived above it for the first two years, reinvesting every penny into improvements. The original 60-seat dining room expanded over the years to include a pavilion, outdoor seating, and, in 2008, the Bistro and bar. This addition allowed them to offer small plates and a more casual dining option while continuing to serve their signature dishes in the main dining room.

Classics like Wiener Schnitzel and Bavarian-inspired cuisine became staples, beloved by regulars and visitors alike.

What ultimately made Wolfgang’s a success wasn’t just the food or the wine – it was Wolfgang himself. His patrons loved the restaurant because he loved them back. His affection showed in the care he took with the plates and the decor. Customers and staff alike were there for Wolfgang, the chef and owner who worked the stoves and greeted his guests with warmth and humility every single day the restaurant was open.

Wolfgang’s wine program became one of its defining features, earning the “Best of Wine Spectator” award in 2018. The restaurant’s cellar grew to over 800 labels, curated to offer variety and value. Longtime sommelier D’Arcy Adams began as a waiter before rising through the ranks to lead the wine program. His story reflected the Greens’ commitment to fostering talent and building a loyal team. Many employees, like Saul, a cook of 29 years; Sean, who in his 12 years rose from sous chef to chef de cuisine; and Jacque, a manager of 14 years, became part of the restaurant’s fabric.

The decision to sell and close Wolfgang’s was not an easy one, but the Greens are ready to move on. Their plans include traveling to Germany to visit family, and exploring Europe on a river cruise.

Reflecting on their journey, Wolfgang said, “We’ve been incredibly fortunate and its been an extraordinary journey. We’ve had the privilege of meeting wonderful people. The support from the community, the staff, and our customers has meant everything. It’s bittersweet to close, but it’s time for the next chapter.”