Crafting a Taco

Written By: Marlene Osteen | Issue: May 2024 | Photograph By: Mary Gilian

Steven Julka and Bryan Lewis

Is there a culinary delicacy more universally beloved than the taco?

One need only taste the lamb barbacoa taco made by Highlands Smokehouse owner Bryan Lewis to understand its unmatched appeal.

Intensely flavorful, it’s the paradigm of taco craftsmanship. Fat bundles of hot and tasty lamb folded inside a warm tortilla and served with a mint chimichurri sauce to add intrigue and excitement – they are seriously
mind expanding.

In Mexico, barbacoa is a style of slow cooking large cuts of meat. In the version that follows, leg of lamb is seared, and oven roasted at a low temperature in a sauce made from chipotle peppers, garlic, and orange juice, until the meat is so tender it easily shreds.

Lewis suggests pairing the tacos with the Santo Cuviso Blanco Bacanora, a venture owned in part by his friend J.T. Fields. (Note: see the companion article on page 128 in this issue about Santo Cuviso and Fields). Crystal clear, with a delicately earthy bouquet, the Blanco Bacanora has a subtle smokiness and smooth, almost liqueur-like sweetness and hint of pepper that makes it an excellent companion for the gamy barbacoa.

Lewis says, “Celebrate spring with these flavorful lamb barbacoa tacos. The tender lamb, zesty mint chimichurri, and creamy avocado make a delicious combination for a festive gathering – and an ideal centerpiece for a Cinco de Mayo party.”

Lamb Barbacoa Taco
Serves 10

Ingredients

1 boneless butterflied leg of lamb, about 4 pounds, well-trimmed
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1 cup orange juice
1 large onion sliced thinly.
2 canned chipotle chiles en adobo, minced plus 2 tablespoons sauce.
4 garlic cloves, minced.

Warm corn or flour tortillas, pickled red onions, chopped cilantro, sliced avocado and mint chimichurri for serving.

Directions

1. Pat lamb dry with paper towels.

2. In a bowl combine onion powder, dried oregano, garlic powder, paprika, cumin and salt. Rub mixture all over lamb and Cover with plastic wrap. Let lamb marinate for at least 1 hour or, even better, overnight in the refrigerator.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat lard or oil in a Dutch oven over high heat until shimmering. Cook lamb, turning occasionally, until well-browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Remove lamb and set aside.

4. To the now empty pan, add orange juice, onion chipotle peppers, adobo sauce and garlic and bring to a simmer. Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pan, and cover with the lid. Slide the pot into the preheated oven.

5. Cook until the meat is fork tender – about 3 to 3 ½ hours. When the meat is done, set aside until cool enough to handle, then tear into large shreds, reserving the remaining concentrated pan juices and skimming the fat.

6. Serve barbacoa with warm tortillas, pickled red onions, fresh cilantro, avocado and mint chimichurri.

Mint Chimichurri

Ingredients

1 cup parsley, chopped.
1 cup mint chopped.
½ cup cilantro, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced.
½ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
½ – 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Directions

Mix parsley, mint, cilantro, garlic in a bowl with oil and vinegar. Season with red pepper flakes, and salt until it has some kick – or to taste. Serve with the lamb barbacoa tacos.